台灣西南方海域會出現突然的大浪，危害近岸港口、觀光設施及增加海上航行的危險，目前尚無法有效掌握湧浪預報相關資訊，為增加對湧浪的了解，本研究使用海上浮標、近岸海氣象觀測資料與AVISO衛星觀測波高，配合第三代波浪模式(WaveWatch III)推算結果，來分析台灣西南海域的波浪場中之湧浪特性。
研究結果發現：(1)台灣西南海域受東北季風時期，波譜能量極值區間由短週期緩慢轉變成長週期，西南季風時期，波譜能量轉變較為快速且較大。西太平洋所形成的颱風會將湧浪傳入，從台灣南端通過的颱風，波譜能量變化趨勢會先增大之後趨緩。從台灣北端通過的颱風，波譜能量變化由小轉大。(2)藉由異常波判別法來推測大浪中存在湧浪的成分，並以量測到水位變化與波譜不同型態，來判別該波浪場以何種能量主導，波譜呈單峰型態時，波浪場通常為受當地風場吹拂所造成的風浪，當地風場風速趨緩時，波譜將易呈雙峰型態，表示波浪場之波高並非完全受當地風場吹拂影響，而是有遠域海面所傳入的低頻(湧浪)能量。(3)為有效從波譜中切割風、湧浪能量分佈使用兩種分離頻率方法:｢修正型P-M譜｣之分離頻率法，在非颱風期間，將可使波譜中風浪、湧浪能量準確分離，｢尖銳度譜｣之分離頻率方法，需修正係數以符合當地波浪特性。颱風期間，修正型P-M譜之分離，受風、湧浪能量轉變極劇烈，故分離效果不佳，但可續用尖銳度譜分離風浪、湧浪。(4)由分離頻率來分析，可初估台灣西南海域每日湧浪與風浪比例，一般期間波浪場之風浪比例約為65%，湧浪比例約為35%，而受颱風影響期間之風浪與湧浪比例變化較多。(5)NWW3模式以QSCAT/NCEP Blended風場輸入模式，推算之波高及週期，與AVISO衛星觀測波高資料比對結果較佳。

Freak waves suddenly strike the southwest of Taiwan, may cause damages of coastal structures, tourist facilities and endanger maritime navigation. The prediction of swells and large waves is under development. In order to improve out understanding of the characteristics of swells, this study analysis data collected from a nearshore weather bouy and a coastal wave station. The Wave Watch 3 model is applied with several wind fields, and compared results with that of AVISO.
The results show that (1) Waters in southwest of Taiwan, in the northeast monsoon season, the peak wave spectral energy tends to sift from short period to longer period, whereas in the southwest monsoon season, the spectrum of energy varies rapidly and is stronger. During the passage of typhoons, swells from the southern tip of Taiwan show stronger energy in the early stage and weaken gradually, on the other hand, swells from the northern tip of Taiwan show increasing energy spectrum to a peak value. The wave energy diminished after typhoon passed Taiwan Strait. (2) The patterns of wave spectrum are related to the winds. A single peak pattern is usually caused by the local winds. A double peaks wave spectrum suggests both local wind and remote forcing. The lower frequency energy is due to swells. (3) In order to separate the swells from the wind waves in the case of double peaks wave spectrum, two methods are applied. For the no typhoon period, a modified ‘P-M spectrum’ is useful as well as is the ‘derivative energy spectrum’. For the typhoon period, only the later method provides reasonable results. (4) Based on the analysis of separated wave spectrum, the ratio of occurrence is 65% wind wave and 35% swell in the normal days. The ratio varies during typhoon period. (5) The comparisons of Wave Watch 3 model output with AVISO data suggest that the forcing of QSCAT/NCEP Blended wind provides a better result.

謝誌 i
中文摘要 ii
Abstract iii
目錄 v
圖目錄 viii
表目錄 xii

第一章、緒論 1
1.1 背景介紹 1
1.2 前人研究 3
1.2.1 波浪理論 3
1.2.2 波譜分析與分離頻率的發展 5
1.2.3 波浪模式發展介紹 11
1.3 研究目的 13
第二章、觀測資料來源與波浪模式彙集 14
2.1 波浪觀測資料 14
2.1.1 中央氣象局海上浮標資料 16
2.1.2 興達港近岸觀測資料 16
2.1.3 AVISO衛星測高 21
2.2 WAVEWATCH Ⅲ波浪模式 22
2.2.1 基本理論 22
2.2.1 波浪作用力平衡方程式 23
第三章、分析方法 25
3.1 資料分析方法 25
3.1.1 傅立葉轉換 (FFT) 25
3.1.2 濾波分析(Lowpass) 26
3.1.3 相關（Correlation）及回歸(Regression Analysis)分析 26
3.1.4 零下切法(zero-down crossing) 27
3.2 波浪資料分析處理 28
3.2.1 異常波與示性波高分析處理 28
3.2.2 一維頻譜雙峰篩選與分類 29
3.2.3 波浪尖銳度譜函數(Steepness function) 30
3.2.4 修正型Pierson-Moskowitz(P-M)譜 33
3.3 數值模式設定 35
3.3.1 National Centers for Environmental Prediction (NCEP)風場 36
3.3.2 QSCAT/NCEP Blended Reanalysis Ocean Winds (QCNC)風場 37
第四章、結果與討論 38
4.1 台灣西南海域湧浪波譜特性分析 38
4.2 異常波統計與分析 42
4.3 一維波譜-雙峰波譜篩選 52
4.4 一維頻譜-以波浪尖銳度譜分離風、湧浪及相關修正 55
4.5 一維頻譜-以修正型Pierson-Moskowitz譜分離風、湧浪 57
4.6 風浪與湧浪分析統計 61
4.7 NWW3模式、衛星測高與觀測資料之結果 63
第五章、結論與建議 66
5.1 結論 66
5.2 建議 68
參考文獻 69
附錄一、蒲福風級對照表 74
附錄二、浪高對照表 75
附錄三、颱風警報發布概況與路徑圖表 76

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