中文摘要
世界各地的沙質海岸，在過去的六十年，普遍遭受到侵蝕的威脅，導致海岸線後退；因此必須建設各種海岸防護措施，以保護居民的生命財產安全。為了保護海岸而從事海岸變遷的研究與開發變遷的預測模式，將有助於達成國土永續利用的目標。
本文報告以目前在國際間流行的GENESIS系統模擬長期海岸線變遷的工程應用。本研究的主題為針對在佈置海岸保護結構物後，海岸線變遷的預測。報告首先討論GENESIS系統的各種相關參數，再探討正向及斜向波浪對單突堤與單離岸堤下游及背後海岸線之變化、比較離岸堤群間距與施工順序對堤後堆沙效益及評估GENESIS在邊界條件設定之限制等。報告並以模擬之結果與人工岬灣經驗公式及水工模型實驗的結果相驗證，以瞭解GENESIS系統在工程應用的可行性。
本研究結果顯示，雖然GENESIS系統在邊界設定可能仍有些許瑕疵，且參數 與 值無法反映海岸線曲度的變化過程而採取時間性之更新，模擬結果應可供工程設計之參考。利用GENESIS系統也應可對建造海岸結構物後海岸線的變遷預測有正面的貢獻。

ABSTRACT
Most sandy beaches around the world have been under the threat of being eroded in the past six decades, resulting in shoreline retreat; thus, calling for various shoreline protection devices to be constructed to preserve the well-being of coastal habitants. To achieve this purpose, research on shoreline changes and development of numerical or mathematical models for predicting shoreline changes would help attain the goal of sustainable use of coastal land.
This thesis reports preliminary engineering applications of GENESIS that have become a popular tool for modeling long-term shoreline changes. The aim of this study is to predict the potential shoreline change in the light of different layouts of shoreline protection devices. The topics addressed in this report include the discussion on the parameters in GENESIS; shoreline changes in the lee and/or on the back of single groin and single detached breakwater with normal or oblique wave incidence; comparison on the efficiency of beach accretion as a function of gap width between structures and the sequence of their construction, as well as assessment on the restraint from the two different boundary conditions used in GENESIS. The results of modeling using GENESIS are then verified using the result based on the empirical parabolic bay shape equation and a physical scale model, in order to test the feasibility of applying GENESIS for practical engineering uses.
From the results of this study, it can be stated that GENESIS is valuable reference tool for engineering design, despite some shortcomings in setting up boundary conditions and the invariant nature of and values which do not respond to the process of changing shoreline curvature. However, the GENESIS system would have a positive contribution to the modeling of shoreline changes upon the construction of protective devices on a coast.

目錄
中文摘要 i
ABSTRACT ii
目錄 iv
圖表目錄 vi
第一章 緒論 1
1-1 研究動機 1
1-2 海岸變遷的數值模擬 2
1-3 文獻回顧 3
第二章 長期海岸變遷之基本考量 5
2-1 基本假設與海岸線變遷的控制方程式 5
2-2 沿岸漂沙傳輸率 8
2-2-1 沿岸漂沙輸送的公式 8
2-2-2 漂沙來源與消失源 10
2-3 經驗參數 10
2-3-1 沿岸漂沙的活動深度 10
2-3-2 海灘的平均剖面形狀與坡度 11
2-3-3 漂沙運動的臨界水深 13
2-4 波浪傳遞的計算 14
2-5 波浪傳遞模式 16
2-5-1 碎波 16
2-5-2 受結構物影響的碎波 18
2-5-3 曲線等深線對海岸線變遷的影響 20
2-5-4 離岸堤的波浪傳遞效應 21
2-6 波浪尖銳度的限制 24
2-7 數值模擬系統 25
2-7-1 數值模擬的精確度 25
2-7-2 數值模擬系統的安定性 26
2-8 網格系統與有限差分法的數值解法 27
2-8-1 交錯的網格點 27
2-8-2 有限差分法之隱式法求解 29
2-9 兩端邊界條件與限制 29
2-9-1 門閂邊界 30
2-9-2 閘門邊界 31
2-9-3 輸沙側渡 32
2-9-4 沙粒穿透/越過傳遞 32
2-9-5 海堤 32
2-10人工養灘 33
第三章 GENESIS系統之基本認識 34
3-1 GENESIS系統簡介 34
3-2 使用GENESIS系統所需輸入的資料 35
3-2-1 座標軸與網格格點 36
3-2-2 原始海岸線的位置 38
3-2-3 波浪資料 39
3-2-4 海底地形資料與海灘剖面資料 42
3-2-5 結構物設置與海岸工程上的應用 43
3-2-6 兩側邊界條件 45
3-3 GENESIS系統的運算與輸出資料 46
第四章 以GENESIS系統探討長期海岸線變遷 48
4-1 座標軸之方位與波浪入射角度之關係 48
4-2 結構物之設定 52
4-3 網格格點間距與模擬結果之關係 53
4-4 波高對單離岸堤後海岸線變遷之影響 55
4-5 波浪週期對單離岸堤後海岸線變遷之影響 57
4-6 突堤在斜向波浪作用下海岸線的變遷 64
4-7 波浪入射角度對單離岸堤後海岸線變遷之影響 69
4-8 離岸堤群間距對背後海岸線變遷之影響 74
4-9 與拋物線型岬灣公式的結果相驗證 78
4-10 以GENESIS系統模擬一個水工模型實驗的結果 80
第五章 結論與建議 83
參考文獻 85

參考文獻
Bruun, P., 1954. Coast Erosion and the Development of Beach Profiles. Technical Memorandum No. 44, Beach Erosion Board, US Army Corps of Engineers, Waterways Experiment Station, Viicksburg, MS, USA.
Crank, J., 1975. The Mathematics of Diffusion, 2nd ed.. Clarendon Press, Oxford, England.
Dean, R. G., 1977. Equilibrium Beach Profile: US Atlantic and Gulf Coast. Ocean Engineering Report No. 12, Department of Civil Engineering, University of Delaware, Newark, DE, USA.
Gravens M. B. and Kraus, N. C., 1989. Representation of the Groin Boundary Condition in Numerical Shoreline Change Models. Proceedings, XXIII Congress, International Association of Hydraulic Research, pp C515-C522.
Hallermeier, R. J., 1983. Sand transport limits in coastal structure design, Proceedings, Coastal Structures ’83, American Society of Civil Engineers, New York, pp 703-716.
Hanson, H., 1987. GENESIS: A Generalized Shoreline Change Model for Engineering Use. Report No. 1007, Department of Water Resources Engineering, University of Lund, Lund, Sweden.
Hanson, H., and Kraus, N. C., 1985. Seawall constraint in the shoreline numerical model. Journal Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering, American Society of Civil Engineers, New York, 3(6): 1079-1083.
Hanson, H., and Kraus, N. C., 1986. Forecast of shoreline change behind multiple coastal structures. Coastal Engineering in Japan, 29: 195-213.
Hanson, H., and Kraus, N. C., 1989. GENESIS: Generalized Model For Simulating Shoreline Change. Coastal Engineering Research Center, Washington, DC.
Hanson, H. and Larson, M., 1987. Comparison of analytic and numerical solutions of the one-line model of shoreline change. Proceedings, Coastal Sediment ’87, American Society of Civil Engineers, New York, pp 500-514.
Hanson, H., Kraus, N. C., Nakashima, L. D., 1989. Shoreline change behind transmissive detached breakwaters. Proceedings, Coastal Zone ’89, American Society of Civil Engineers, New York, pp 568-582.
Hsu, J. R. C., and Evans C., 1989. Parabolic bay shapes and applications. Proceedings, Inst. Civil Engrs., Part 2, London: Thomas Telford, 87: 557-570.
Komar, P. D., and Inman, D. L., 1970. Longshore sand transport on baches. Journal Geophysical Research, 73(30): 5914-5927.
Kraus, N. C., 1983. Applications of shoreline prediction model. Proceedings, Coastal Zone’ 89, American Society of Civil Engineers, New York, pp 632-645.
Kraus, N. C. and Harikai, S., 1983. Numerical model of the shoreline change at Oarai Beach, Coastal Engineering, 7(1): 1-28.
Kraus, N. C., Gingerich, K. J., and Rosati, J. D., 1988. Toward an improved empirical formula for longshore sand transport. Proceedings, 21st International Conference on Coastal Engineering, American Society of Civil Engineers, New York, Vol. 2, pp 1182-1196.
Kraus, N. C., Hanson, H., and Harikai, S., 1984. Shoreline change at Oarai beach Japan: past, present and future. Proceedings, 19th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, American Society of Civil Engineers, New York, Vol. 2, pp 2107-2123.
Larson, M., Kraus, N. C. and Hanson, H., 1987. Schematized numerical model of three-dimensional beach change, Abstracts 22nd International Coastal Engineering Conference, in preparation, American Society of Civil Engineers, New York.
McCowan, J., 1894. On the highest wave of permanent type. Philosophical Magazine, 38: 351-357
Mitchell, J. H., 1893. On the highest waves in water. Philosophical Magazine, Series 5, 36: 430-437.
Moreno, L. J. and Kraus, N. C., 1999. Equilibrium shape of headland-bay beaches for engineering design. Proceedings, Coastal Sediments ’99, American Society of Civil Engineers, New York, Vol. 1, pp 860-875.
Nielsen, A. F., Turner, I. L. Miller, B. M., Leyden, V. and Gordon, A. D., 2000. Experiences with physical scale basin modeling using mobile sediments. Proceedings, 27th International Conference of Coastal Engineering, American Society of Civil Engineers, New York, Vol. 3, pp 2928-2941.
Ozasa, H., and Brampton, A. H., 1980. Mathematical modeling of beaches backed by seawalls. Coastal Engineering, 4(1): 47-64.
Pelnard-Considere, R., 1956. Essai de theorie de l’evolution des forms de rivage en plage de sable et de galets. 4th Journees de l’Hydraulique, Les Energies de la Mer, Question III, No. 1, pp 289-298.
Perlin, M. G., 1979. Predicting beach planforms in the lee of a breakwater, Proceedings, Coastal Structures ’79, American Society of Civil Engineers, New York, pp 792-808.
Silvester, R., and Hsu, J. R. C., 1993. Coastal Stabilization: Innovative Concepts. Englewood Cliffs, NJ: Prentice Hall.
Silvester, R., and Hsu, J. R. C., 1997. Coastal Stabilization. World Scientific, Singapore. (Reprint of Silvester and Hsu, 1993)
Weggel, J. R.1972. Maximum breaker height. Journal Waterways, Harbours Coastal Engineerings Division, American Society of Civil Engineers, New York, 98: 529-548.
Yasso, W. E., 1965. Plan geometry of headland bay beaches. Journal Geology, 73: 702-714.