台灣海峽近岸的海底沈積物主要為陸源沈積物，陸源沈積物經由河川到海峽近岸的過程中，沈積物的運動受到海氣象水文動力作用主導，影響沈積物的傳輸及分佈情況；沈積物的來源、傳輸方式與分佈範圍，對於台灣海峽近岸海底地貌的變化有很大的影響。近海沈積物之侵淤受到風場、流場及波浪場等因素的影響，造成垂直向的再懸浮及水平向的傳輸運動。本研究之目的由觀察長週期的海氣象水文動力及海底地形變化，探討金門海域波流作用之海底地形變化情形。
本研究資料來源為金門水頭商港整體開發之海域氣象水文探測資料，其中包括潮波流儀所探測之海流及波浪資料，風速風向計之風場資料，及每半年一次的海底地形測深。分析時間從2001年10月到2006年4月。
資料分析結果顯示：（1）金門水頭商港外海海底地形在東北季風時期，北邊區域以淤積，南邊以侵蝕為主；西南季風時期則相反。（2）東北季風時期波流作用與海底地貌變化相關性較高；西南季風時期波流作用與海底地貌變化相關性較低。（3）低頻海流與區域風場、波浪相關較弱；風場與波浪相關性頗高。（4）當風場強而穩定時，波高增高，推測底質沈積物會再懸浮，如果同時有強勁海流，會把沈積物帶離，呈現侵蝕狀態，如果海流微弱，則懸浮沈積物受重力作用再度沈澱，呈現淤積狀態。（5）沈積物來源可能有2種，一種為冬季大陸沿岸流從北方帶入；另一種為夏季九龍江流域從南方帶入。（6）金門水頭商港近海海底地貌，在研究區域北邊，東北季風時期堆積的泥沙，在西南季風時期侵蝕殆盡；研究區域南邊，東北季風時期侵蝕的泥沙，在西南季風時期漸漸補充回來，反復作用下，此地區的水深變化達到一個平衡的狀態，在長時間的尺度，水頭商港近海的海底地貌沒有大幅度的變動。

The bottom sediments near the coast of Taiwan Strait are mainly terrestrial origins. The sediment transport processes are controlled by the meteorology hydrology factors, including winds, waves, flows and sea level variations. This study is aimed to investigate the influence of wave-current interaction to the sediment dynamics in the vicinity Shuitou Harbor of Chinmen. Emphasize is placed on analysis of observed meteorology and hydrology data and the bottom topography.
The data used in this study are from the field observations during the development of Shuitou Harbor. The hourly data include winds, currents, waves and tides. Additional bottom topography surveys were carried out twice per year, one in April and the other in October. The period of time series data is between October, 2001 and April, 2006.
The results of the analyses showed that (1) During the period of northeast monsoon, deposit dominated in the northern part of the study area (Shuitou Harbor vicinity), while erosion dominated in the southern part. The deposition and erosion phenomena reversed during the period of southwest monsoon. (2) The bottom topography variations had higher correlation with the large waves and flows in the winter northeast monsoon season. (3) Winds correlate well with the large waves and flows in the winter, while the correlation is weak in the summer. (4) Resuspension of bottom sediments seems play a major role in the sediment transport, especially in the winter large wave condition. During persistent northeast monsoon, wave height increased significantly that bottom sediments were eroded and transported by the southward mean flow, erosion occurred (in the southern part of the study area). (5) There are two likely sources of sediment. The major source of sediment is from the north, brought by the southward China coastal current in winter. The second source of sediment is from the south, Jiulong River, which occurred mostly in the summer. (6) The long term analysis of topography variations in the vicinity of Shuitou Harbor showed that there is a balance of deposition and erosion. The depositions in the northern part of the study area during the northeast monsoon were eroded and moved north during the period of southwest monsoon. On the other hand, in the southern area, the erosions during the winter were supplied by northward sediment movement in summer. In the long term, the seabed terrain of Shuitou Harbor has no significant change.

章次 頁次
謝誌﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒Ⅰ
中文摘要﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒Ⅱ
英文摘要﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒Ⅳ
目錄﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒ Ⅵ
圖目錄﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒ Ⅸ
第一章 緒論﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒ 1
1.1 前言﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒ 1
1.2 研究目的﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒ 3
第二章 現場觀測資料蒐集﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒ 5
2.1 現場觀測﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒ 5
2.1.1 研究區域與儀器位置﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒ 6
2.1.2 海流觀測﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒8
2.1.3 風向風速觀測﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒ 10
2.1.4 波浪觀測﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒ 11
2.1.5 地形水深觀測﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒ 12
2.2 原始時間序列資料展示﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒ 14
2.2.1 海流資料﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒ 14
2.2.2 風速風向資料﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒ 16
2.2.3 波浪資料﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒ 17
2.3 原始地形水深測線展示﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒ 19
第三章 資料處理分析﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒20
3.1 資料品管﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒ 20
3.1.1 海流資料﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒ 20
3.1.2 風向風速資料﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒ 22
3.1.3 波浪資料﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒ 24
3.1.4 地形水深資料﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒ 29
3.2 分析方法﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒ 30
3-2.1 海氣象資料與水深資料之統整﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒ 30
3-2.2 濾波分析﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒ 32
3-2.3 最佳化內插分析﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒ 32
第四章 結果與討論﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒ 34
4.1 水深資料格點化﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒ 34
4-1.1 水深資料平均﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒ 34
4-1.2 格點化與繪圖﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒ 37
4.2 海底地形變化﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒ 42
4-2.1 地形在東北季風時期的變化﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒ 45
4-2.2 地形在西南季風時期的變化﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒ 46
4-2.3 地形四年的變化﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒ 48
4.3 海氣象與底質浸淤﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒ 52
4-3.1 海流分析﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒ 52
4-3.2 風場分析﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒ 55
4-3.3 波浪分析﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒ 57
4-3.4 每季海底地形變化與海氣象的對應﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒ 59
4.4 大陸沿岸環境的影響﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒ 81
第五章 結論﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒ 91
第六章 參考文獻﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒ 93
附錄﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒﹒97

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