中文摘要
當颱風過境時，海灘受到颱風暴浪的影響，往往造成灘線後退，同時被侵蝕的沙灘則被帶到碎波帶附近形成離岸沙洲。颱風過後，隨著餘湧及季節性波浪之作用，沙洲逐漸向陸移動，甚至消失，海灘逐漸回復；在這種機制下，海灘剖面週而復始形成一個動態平衡。
本文以SBEACH系統模擬在不同波浪條件作用下，海灘剖面之變化。研究內容主要探討以SBEACH之波浪計算模組預測碎波發生範圍，再由預測的碎波位置推估沙洲的分佈。報告並比較美國工程師兵團海岸工程研究中心(CERC)大型波浪水槽試驗之資料，說明SBEACH模擬灘線位置的結果與參數設定關係。
研究結果顯示，以SBEACH之最大波高的向離岸分佈圖推算碎波波高可以得到良好的結果。藉由最大波高的向離岸分佈圖所推估的沙洲頂峰位置分佈亦相當準確。報告中透過分析不同率定參數(預設率定參數及Larson (1996)所提出之簡諧波率定參數)的模擬結果，經迴歸分析得沙洲頂峰離岸距離Xc/L0與深海波尖銳度H0/L0及Xc/L0與碎波參數ξ0，都存在良好的線性與乘冪關係。由存在的線性或乘冪關係所繪出沙洲分佈位置與波浪條件之關係圖為預測沙洲位置提供一個有效的工具。報告中並指出，若與大型水槽試驗結果相比較，在灘線模擬應用方面可能出現四種SBEACH的模擬結果，並且發現藉由率定參數的調整可以有效提高SBEACH模擬的可靠性。在不考慮大波浪尖銳度造成較小的灘線侵蝕的一些CERC案例時，由模擬結果迴歸分析得到，無因次化灘線後退X/L0與深海波浪尖銳度H0/L0有一良好的線性關係。
在實際工程應用方面，本研究以花蓮北濱海岸為例，規劃當地海岸緩衝帶。雖然影響海岸漂沙的因素繁多，藉由SBEACH模式，在海岸剖面變化的模擬，與配合平衡岬灣軟體MEPBAY繪製靜態灣線，可為海岸工程人員提供更一具體的規劃工具。

ABSTRACT

Storm waves affect beach berm and even dunes, resulting in shoreline retreat accompanying by the formation of a submerged bar in the vicinity of the breakers. After a storm wanes, bar material originally may removed from the beachprogressively move landwards by subsequent swell which prevails at the time to assist beach recovery. Such repetitive processes are the nature way to maintain a beach profile in dynamic condition.
This research essay reports an application of SBEACH software to simulate beach profile changes induced by different storm conditions. Upon applying the wave module within SBEACH , the range of broken waves during a storm is first calculated, which is in turn to help locate the range of bar crest. Comparisons are then given for bar crest position and the extent of shoreline recession simulated by SBEACH and the original beach profile data obtained from large wave tank (LWT) tests conducted of the Coastal Engineering Research Center (CERC), US Army Corps of Engineers. The effect of resetting the values to several key parameters in the sediment transport equation is also investigated.
The present study confirms that cross-shore distribution of the maximum wave heights, one of the many important outputs from SBEACH, can be successfully applied for the estimation of wave breaker heights and the prediction of bar crest positions. In addition, from setting different values to some key calibration parameters used in the model (e.g., the default calibration values and Larson’s (1996) calibration parameters for monochromatic waves), bar crest distance offshore Xc/Lo can be linearly related to deep-water wave steepness Ho/Lo, while bar crest position Xc/Lo versus surf similarity parameter

中文摘要 i
ABSTRACT ii
目錄 iii
圖目錄 v
表目錄 vii

第一章 緒論
1.1 前言 1
1.2 研究動機與目的 2
1.3 研究方法與步驟 3
1.4 文獻回顧 3
1.4.1湧浪型平衡剖面 3
1.4.2暴浪型平衡剖面 9

第二章 海灘剖面變化之計算考量
2.1 海灘斷面之分類 12
2.2 大型波浪水槽實驗 13
2.3 傳輸區域及傳輸率 18
2.4 波浪計算模式 20
2.4.1模式相容性及使用限制 20
2.4.2波浪之數值計算 22
2.5 SBEACH海灘剖面變化之計算簡介 27
2.5.1模式相容性及使用限制 27
2.5.2剖面變化之數值計算 28

第三章 SBEACH系統介紹
3.1 SBEACH系統簡介 33
3.1.1 SBEACH之發展 34
3.1.2 SBEACH輸入設定及介面說明 35
3.1.2.1海灣設定(Reach Configuration) 35
3.1.2.2 暴風設定(Storm Configuration) 42
3.2 SBEACH系統的運算與輸出資料 47

第四章 SBEACH之工程應用
4.1 大型波浪水槽試驗之沙洲過程驗證 49
4.2 SBEACH 輸入設定 50
4.3 最大波高分佈與碎波關係 51
4.4 碎波沙洲驗證 54
4. 4. 1 沙洲頂峰位置分佈 54
4. 4. 2 沙洲頂峰相對位置之預測 57
4.5 灘線變化模擬結果 67
4.6 SBEACH率定參數與灘線模擬 77
4.7 暴浪作用下灘線後退距離預測 81
4.8 SBEACH模式於海岸緩衝帶之設計應用－以花蓮北濱為例 84

第五章 結論與建議
5.1 結論 89
5.2 建議 92

參考文獻 93

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