Responsive image
博碩士論文 etd-0724112-192638 詳細資訊
Title page for etd-0724112-192638
論文名稱
Title
有限水深波譜中作業化波浪系統的劃分與識別
Automated Partition and Identification of Wave System for Wave Spectrum in Finite Water Depth
系所名稱
Department
畢業學年期
Year, semester
語文別
Language
學位類別
Degree
頁數
Number of pages
59
研究生
Author
指導教授
Advisor
召集委員
Convenor
口試委員
Advisory Committee
口試日期
Date of Exam
2012-06-25
繳交日期
Date of Submission
2012-07-24
關鍵字
Keywords
劃分步驟、風浪、湧浪、波譜、有限水深波譜
TMA spectrum, spectral partition, wind sea, swell, spectrum
統計
Statistics
本論文已被瀏覽 5713 次,被下載 1473
The thesis/dissertation has been browsed 5713 times, has been downloaded 1473 times.
中文摘要
波譜(spectrum)已廣泛應用於描述真實海況,波譜說明不同方向和不同週期進行波組合的能量分佈情形。波譜包含因風生成的風浪(wind sea)和遠處傳遞來的湧浪(swell),因而波譜是風浪和湧浪的成分組合。本文研究可作業化的波譜劃分步驟和識別方法,劃分步驟將波譜分離出波浪系統,經由識別方法判斷波浪系統的波浪特性。從深水波理論延伸到有限水深的水深修正係數,提出由Pierson and Moskowitz(1964)頻峰法改進的有限水深頻峰法,再評估Wang and Hwang(2001)尖銳度法指出其劃分頻率容易受到上限頻率的影響,然後依據Portilla et al.(2009)PM頻譜法的劃分步驟和識別方法,以有限水深波譜理論為基礎,提出有限水深識別方法,在商用數學軟體MATLAB®建立作業化系統,分析2011年米雷颱風期間台灣東部近岸的海況,分析全台七個浮標測站的波譜資料,依照作業化系統的劃分頻率,比較Portilla et al.(2009)PM頻譜法和Wang and Hwang(2001)尖銳度法的結果,作風浪或湧浪波浪系統的時間序列有義波高和平均頻率,觀察到颱風風場移動到浮標位置,使波浪系統成長而造成波峰能量不穩定增高,因此產生風浪和湧浪消長現象。本文提出波浪系統的劃分步驟與識別方法,未來可以應用於評估颱風湧浪對台灣海岸保全的影響,改善數值模式波浪系統劃分與識別程序。
Abstract
In investigating ocean surface waves at a location, it is often to describe the waves with spectrum. A wave spectrum measures the distribution of wave energy from the wave trains in all different directions and all different periods at a location. Since the waves at a location contain seas and swells (which are the waves generated by local and remote wind systems respectively), a wave spectrum is viewed composing of different portions of the seas and swell spectrum. How to precisely partition a wave spectrum for each wave system (seas and swells) is of practical need in engineering practice, wave forecast, and coastal water management. At present, there are many different partitioning schemes, but not all are reliable and feasible enough for operational use. This report presents a wave system partition scheme followed by an identification scheme, which uses TMA spectrum, to identify different wave systems. This partition and identification scheme is intended for operationally use in partitioning the swell and wind sea in spectrum at finite water depth. Automated spectral partition and identification have been developed to evaluate swell systems in data during typhoon Meari.
目次 Table of Contents
摘要 I
ABSTRACT II
圖目錄 V
表目錄 VII
符號說明 VIII
第一章 緒論 1
1-1 研究目的 1
1-2文獻回顧 3
1-3 研究方法及本文架構 5
第二章 相關理論 6
2-1 PM頻峰法 6
2-1-1 Pierson and Moskowitz(1964)頻峰法 6
2-1-2 有限水深頻峰法 7
2-2 尖銳度法 9
2-2-1 Wang and Hwang(2001)尖銳度法 9
2-2-2尖銳度法討論 12
2-3 PM頻譜法 13
2-3-1 Portilla et al.(2009)頻譜法 13
2-3-2 有限水深波譜理論 14
2.3.3 有限水深識別方法 16
第三章 作業化與驗證 17
3-1 作業化程式 17
3-1-1 波譜劃分步驟 17
3-1-2 有限水深識別方法 18
3-2 驗證 19
第四章 分析與結果 22
4-1 資料來源 22
4-2 資料分析 24
4-3 分析結果 29
4-3-1 小琉球海域浮標實測的波浪資料之分析結果 29
4-3-2 鵝鸞鼻海域浮標實測的波浪資料之分析結果 31
4-3-3 台東海域浮標實測的波浪資料之分析結果 34
4-3-4 花蓮海域浮標實測的波浪資料之分析結果 37
4-3-5 龜山島海域浮標實測的波浪資料之分析結果 40
4-3-6 龍洞海域浮標實測的波浪資料之分析結果 44
第五章 結論與建議 46
5-1 結論 46
5-2 建議 47
參考文獻 48
參考文獻 References
1. Bouws, E., Günther, H., Rosenthal, W., and Vincent,C. L.,(1985)“Similarity of the Wind Wave Spectrum in Finite Depth Water 1. Spectral Form.,”J. Geophys. Res., Vol. 90, pp. 975-986.
2. Gerling, T.W.(1992) “Partitioning sequences and arrays of direc-tional ocean wave spectra into component wave systems,”J. Atmos. Oceanic Technol., Vol. 9, pp.444-458.
3. Hasselmann, K., Brüning, C. and Heimbach, P. (1996) “An improved algorithm for retrieval of ocean wave spectra from synthetic aperture radar image spectra. ”J. Geophys. Res., Vol. 16, pp.16,615 – 16,629.
4. Kitaigorodskii, S. A., Krasitskii, V. P.,and Zaslavskii, M. M.(1975)“On Phillips' theory of equilibrium range in the spectra on wind-generated gravity waves.,”J. Phys. Oceanogr., Vol. 5, pp. 410–420
5. Pierson, J. W., and Moskowitz, L.(1964) “A proposed spectral form for fully eveloped wind seas based on the similarity theory of S. A. Kitaigorodskii.,” J.Geophys.Res., Vol.69, pp.5181–5190.
6. Portilla J., Ocampo-Torres F. J., and Monbaliu, J.(2009) “Spectral Partitioning and Identification of Wind Sea and Swell,” J. Atmos. Oceanic Technol., Vol. 26, pp. 107–122.
7. Rodríguez, G., and Soares, C. Guedes(1999)“A criterion for the automatic identification of multimodal sea wave spectra. ,” Appl. Ocean Res., Vol. 21, pp.329-333.
8. Violante-Carvalho, N., Parente, C. E., Robinson, I. S. Robinson, and Nunes, L. M. P.(2002)“On the growth of wind generated waves in a swell dominated region in the South Atlantic.,” J. Offshore Mech. Arctic Eng.,Vol. 124, pp.14–21.
9. Voorrips, A. C., Makin, V. K. and Hasselmann, S. (1997) “Assimi-lation of wave spectra from pitch-and-roll buoys in a North Sea wave model., ” J. Geophys. Res., Vol. 102, pp. 5829-5849.
10. Wang, D. W. and Hwang, P. A.(2001)“An operational method for separating wind sea and swell from ocean wave spectra,”J. Atmos. Oceanic Technol., Vol. 18, pp. 2052–2062.
電子全文 Fulltext
本電子全文僅授權使用者為學術研究之目的,進行個人非營利性質之檢索、閱讀、列印。請遵守中華民國著作權法之相關規定,切勿任意重製、散佈、改作、轉貼、播送,以免觸法。
論文使用權限 Thesis access permission:自定論文開放時間 user define
開放時間 Available:
校內 Campus: 已公開 available
校外 Off-campus: 已公開 available


紙本論文 Printed copies
紙本論文的公開資訊在102學年度以後相對較為完整。如果需要查詢101學年度以前的紙本論文公開資訊,請聯繫圖資處紙本論文服務櫃台。如有不便之處敬請見諒。
開放時間 available 已公開 available

QR Code