近數十年來，歐美海岸先進國家的學界及研究機構積極研發海岸水動力數值模式，推廣成效良好的數值模擬有丹麥的MIKE 21套裝軟體、美國的CEDAS系統（含GENESIS及SBEACH）及西班牙的海岸模擬系統SMC等，皆以輔助海岸工程的研究規劃與設計實務為目的。其中西班牙的SMC是唯一的整合型海岸規劃模擬系統，由系統中預儲的海域地形及海氣象資料，可直接在螢幕上進行養灘與岬灣、防波堤擴建延伸及航道濬深等規劃與設計，以及防災減災措施的模擬。目前我國海岸工程學界雖有自行研發的波潮流計算程式與海岸變遷模式，經濟部水利署亦已陸續嘗試建立全國海岸波浪與潮汐資料庫，惟尚有建立全國性通用的海域地形－波潮流－海岸防護整合型規劃模擬平台的必要。
本論文首先說明台灣海岸環境概況及海岸變遷主要原因，回顧台灣自民國60年以降的海岸防護沿革及現階段水利署的海岸環境營造計畫願景與維持自然海岸線比例不再降低的目標－尤其是以人工養灘配合岬灣提昇自然海岸線比例及建立全國適用的海岸規劃模擬平台。為因應海岸防災減災、海灘復育及創造親水遊憩灣岸，本研究建議以師法大自然的靜態平衡岬灣，由其經驗式配合西班牙SMC系統，可在螢幕上規劃岬灣，做為近自然工法的最佳代表。
本研究由引進西班牙全國通用的SMC系統的架構，將所蒐集的台灣海域海圖、近岸實測水深及長期觀測的ICOADS等資料，完成了預儲台灣兩個海岸的海域地形與波浪基本資料，邁向建立台灣海岸規劃數值模擬平台的第一個大步。同時以台灣版的SMC海岸規劃模擬平台之成果，應用於屏東大鵬灣及高雄西子灣，做為示範案例，進行設計方案所需一系列的季風與颱風波浪的波流場計算及養灘搭配岬灣工法的規劃設計。透過本研究SMC的模擬結果，可協助規劃者或決策者深入瞭解海岸整體狀況，進而研擬更適切之防護對策，以促成我國海岸近自然工法的早日達成。最後，期許將來以研究成果協助政府水利單位落實「海岸環境營造計畫（98~103年度）」中揭示建立適用海岸規劃平台的策略，推廣海岸防護規劃設計系統化，以達成我國海岸環境永續發展的願景。

In the last few decades, academic and institutions advanced in coastal research in Europe and America have rigorously engaged in developing numerical models for coastal wave hydrodynamic simulations. The notable products include MIKE21 from DHI in Denmark, CEDAS (with GENESIS and SBEACH) from Veri-Tech in the United States, and the SMC from University of Cantabria in Spain. Among them, the Spanish Coastal Modeling System (SMC) is the only integrated package for coastal planning and modeling. With a unique preprocess module which pre-stores the bathymetry and wave data, the SMC provides a user-friendly interface directly using the screen display for a series of coastal planning and design applications which comprise artificial nourishment with headland-bay beach, breakwater construction and extension, and dredging of navigation channel etc., as well as the usual wave-current simulation for countermeasures in coastal protection and disaster mitigation. Despite the availability of several numerical programs for wave-current simulations and beach changes that have been developed by the coastal professional in Taiwan, and the continuous effort of the Water Resources Agency, Ministry of Economic Affairs to establish a national coastal database, it is imperative to develop/setup an integrated bathymetry-hydrodynamics-protection system, such as the Spanish SMC, as the key element in the national platform for coastal planning and modeling.
This dissertation first describes the coastal environment in Taiwan, major causes for shoreline evolution and then reviews the history of shore protection since 1970s, together with the current prospective for coastal environment and strategies to sustain the natural shoreline ratio. To accomplish these goals, the Water Resources Agency has endeavored to implement artificial nourishment with headland-bay beaches, in order to raise the ratio of natural shoreline, in addition to establish a national coastal planning and simulation platform. As a response to this call for eco-engineering approach, we recommend that headland-bay beach in static equilibrium be adopted for mitigating coastal erosion, beach restoration and creation of recreational beaches, which can be designed directly on the screen using the empirical bay shape equation in conjunction with the SMC.
Based on the framework of the Spanish SMC, this writer has successfully attempted the preliminary pre-process module of Baco (bathymetry) and Odin (wave climate) for Taiwan, using data from digitized nautical charts, nearshore depth surveys, and long-term wave observation results around Taiwan from the International Comprehensive Ocean-Atmosphere Data Set (ICOADS). The effort generates the first version of SMC in Taiwan. Having pre-stored the bathymetry and wave data for Dapeng bay in Pingtung County and Sizihwan Bay in Kaohsiung City, a series of coastal planning and modeling procedures for these two model sites are demonstrated in this dissertation, including a series of calculations of wave-current distribution for monsoon and storm waves, as well as planning of bay beach using artificial nourishment.
Upon executing the Taiwanese version of SMC introduced in this dissertation, the modeling results can be applied to assist the planners and decision makers in comprehending the coastal environment, devising a feasible shore protection strategy, and promoting an earlier accomplishment of the so-called 「geo-engineering 「 in our country. Finally, the writer also wishes the outcome of this study could help relevant government agency to accomplish the prospective of sustainable coastal development upon implementing the strategies of establishing an appropriate coastal planning platform and promoting a systematic approach for coastal planning and design, as revealed in the "Sustainable Regeneration of Coastal Environment Project (98 ~ 103 fiscal year)".

中文摘要 ...................................................................................................................... i
Abstract ........................................................................................................................ ii
目錄 ........................................................................................................................... iv
圖目錄 ....................................................................................................................... vii
表目錄 ...................................................................................................................... xiii
符號說明 .................................................................................................................. xiv
第一章 緒論 ....................................................................................................... 1
1.1 台灣海岸環境 ............................................................................................... 1
1.1.1 台灣海岸環境概況 .............................................................................. 1
1.1.2 影響海岸變遷的主要因素 .................................................................. 3
1.2 台灣海岸防護 ............................................................................................... 4
1.2.1 台灣海岸防護沿革 .............................................................................. 4
1.2.2 現階段台灣海岸防護策略 .................................................................. 5
1.3 研究目的與論文架構 ................................................................................... 6
1.3.1 研究目的 ............................................................................................. 6
1.3.2 論文架構 ............................................................................................. 7
第二章 海岸變遷模式與GIS 應用 .................................................................... 9
2.1 長期海岸變遷數值模式 ............................................................................... 9
2.1.1 模式之發展 .......................................................................................... 9
2.1.2 單線模式 ............................................................................................ 11
2.2 短期海灘剖面變遷模式 ............................................................................. 11
2.2.1 SBEACH 模式 ...................................................................................... 11
2.2.2 MIKE21 ................................................................................................ 14
2.3 台灣海岸資訊整合防災系統 ...................................................................... 15
2.3.1 海岸地理資訊系統 ............................................................................ 15
2.3.2 以GIS 建構「數位海洋」 ................................................................. 17
第三章 靜態平衡岬灣的工程應用 .................................................................. 19
3.1 岬灣地貌的工程觀 ..................................................................................... 19
3.1.1 岬灣的類型 ....................................................................................... 19
3.1.2 靜態平衡岬灣經驗式 ....................................................................... 21
3.1.3 MEPBAY 應用軟體 .......................................................................... 22
3.2 靜態平衡岬灣觀念的應用 ......................................................................... 24
3.2.1 驗證岬灣安定性 ............................................................................... 24
3.2.2 預測防波堤下游海岸在上游「零漂沙」輸入的灣線 .................... 27
3.2.3 海岸防護與改善既有防護設施 ........................................................ 30
3.2.4 創造親水遊憩灣岸 ............................................................................ 32
第四章 西班牙SMC 海岸模擬系統 .................................................................. 34
4.1 前言 ........................................................................................................... 34
4.2 軟體下載與安裝 ....................................................................................... 39
4.3 預儲資料Sigma ........................................................................................ 40
4.3.1 水深預儲模組Baco ........................................................................... 40
4.3.2 海氣象波浪模組Odin ....................................................................... 42
4.3.3 海岸溢淹模組Atlas ........................................................................... 46
4.4 短期海岸變遷分析 ................................................................................... 48
4.4.1 波浪傳輸模組Oluca .......................................................................... 49
4.4.2 近岸流場模組Copla .......................................................................... 51
4.4.3 漂沙傳輸模組Eros ............................................................................ 53
4.4.5 海灘剖面地形變遷模組Petra .......................................................... 55
4.5 長期平衡海岸分析 ................................................................................... 56
4.6 工程現場應用MMT ................................................................................. 58
第五章 台灣海岸規劃模擬系統之建立 ............................................................ 66
5.1 水深地形資料之建立 ................................................................................. 66
5.1.1 水深地形資料蒐集 ........................................................................... 66
5.1.2 地形資料建置 ................................................................................... 67
5.1.3 Baco 模組展示 ................................................................................ 73
5.2 海象資料之建立 ......................................................................................... 75
5.2.1 波浪資料來源 .................................................................................... 79
5.2.1.1 海象觀測資料ICOADS........................................................... 79
5.2.1.2 海洋衛星資料（Topex/Poseidon） ...................................... 82
5.2.2 兩波交會計算方法 ........................................................................... 83
5.2.3 波浪資料率定分析 ........................................................................... 84
5.2.4 Odin 預儲模組之建立 ....................................................................... 91
5.2.4.1 鵝鑾鼻海象資料 .................................................................... 95
5.2.4.2 蘇澳海象資料 ...................................................................... 100
5.2.4.3 大鵬灣海象資料 .................................................................. 105
第六章 以SMC 規劃岬灣之示範案例 ............................................................. 110
6.1 屏東大鵬灣海灘規劃 .............................................................................. 110
6.1.1 方案研擬與構想 ............................................................................. 110
6.1.2 SMC 數值模擬 ................................................................................. 114
6.1.2.1 現況波流場模擬結果 .......................................................... 120
6.1.2.2 方案三模擬結果 .................................................................. 124
6.2 高雄西子灣海灘復育 .............................................................................. 127
6.2.1 方案研擬 ........................................................................................ 128
6.2.2 SMC 模擬專案之建立 ..................................................................... 129
6.2.2.1 現況 ...................................................................................... 129
6.2.2.2 方案二 .................................................................................. 130
6.2.3 SMC 數值模擬 ................................................................................. 136
6.2.3.1 現況波流場模擬結果 .......................................................... 141
6.2.3.2 方案二模擬結果 .................................................................. 146
第七章 結論與建議 ......................................................................................... 153
7.1 結論 .......................................................................................................... 153
7.2 建議 .......................................................................................................... 154
參考文獻 .......................................................................................................... 155
著作 ................................................................................................................ 165

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