台灣海岸地區夏秋之際常遭颱風侵襲，引起暴潮與巨浪，造成海岸侵蝕。近年海岸防護除防災、減災及防侵為目標外，尚需兼顧景觀、生態與親水；所採用的防護設施，除傳統的剛體構造物外，已逐漸採用近自然工法。本研究擬探討離岸潛堤配置及波浪種類對海灘剖面及濱台的影響。
首先本研究彙整美國CE及日本PI大型水槽試驗結果，探討並率定海灘剖面數值模式SBEACH之主要參數 及 ，與 建立迴歸式，作為模式應用時的參數選用依據。同時採用Larson and Kraus (2000)所提水槽實驗以驗證硬底床模組的建議，配合Risio and Lisi (2010)之離岸潛堤水槽試驗結果，考量利用硬底床模組架構於潛堤之適用性，藉此模擬10種離岸距離、10種潛堤高度及10種潛堤頂寬的配置受4種重現其波浪類型作用所得之剖面變化，探討如何透過離岸潛堤配置達到減緩海岸侵蝕的目標。
模擬結果顯示；(1) 海灘剖面受到規則波浪作用下，其侵蝕(於0 m線及濱台)及淤積(0 m線)皆較不規則波浪顯著。(2) 對0 m線及濱台而言，颱風波浪重現期大者侵蝕寬度越大；重現期小者於剖面0 m線，則會產生淤積。(3) 潛堤離岸位置越遠，離岸輸沙量逐漸增加，後灘侵蝕漸趨嚴重。(4) 潛堤增高，0 m線往海側推移淤積，遭受強烈波浪作用時，堤高的變化則無實質效果；濱台因波能消減效益越高，侵蝕程度越小。(5) 潛堤頂寬越寬，仍需配合適當的堤高，方能消減波能，減少濱台侵蝕量；否則堤高不足將使地形提升，波高增大，對濱台造成侵蝕。

During the onslaught of a storm on the coasts of Taiwan in summer and autumn, large waves and storm surge have often caused beach erosion. In order to mitigate coastal disasters and erosion, soft-options have been promoted in recent years, to fulfill the purpose of shore protection, as well as to meet the new requirements of landscape, ecology and recreation. Consequently, semi-natural approaches have been adopted in stead of the conventional hard-structures. This thesis aims to report a study on the effects of detached submerged breakwater layouts and storm wave types on beach profile changes and berm retreat.
In order to establish a practical procedure to assist the assessment of beach profile changes with submerged breakwaters during storm, we first collect and analyze the beach profile change data performed in large wave tanks (CE from the US and PI from Japan), and apply the well known SBEACH model to derive regression relationship between the two key parameters ( and ) in this model against the non-dimensional fall velocity ( ). The suggestion of Larson and Kraus (2000) to include hard bottom option in SBEACH with a set of modified and values, which may be different from that originally developed for a sandy beach environment, is then carried out using the beach profile changes results conducted experimentally with submerged breakwaters (Risio and Lisi, 2010). Consequently, we have conducted the numerical experiments systematically to study the beach profile changes using submerged breakwaters under various environmental combinations (with 10 different offshore distances, 10 breakwater heights, 10 crown widths and 4 types of storm wave conditions derived from storm return periods), from which a new set of and values are derived and used in SBEACH for the investigation of installing submerged breakwaters to mitigate potential beach erosion.
Our numerical investigations using SBEACH for a beach with submerged breakwater reveal that: (1) Beach profile changes in erosion (0 m line and berm) and accretion (0 m line) due to regular waves are more significant than that of irregular waves. (2) Storm waves with a long return period cause more erosion to the shoreline (0 m line) and berm, while that with short return period may produce accretion to the shoreline. (3) The further a submerged breakwater away offshore, the more sediment transportation offshore and severe beach and berm erosion. (4).An increase of submerged breakwater height would result in accretion near the 0 line; except during a violent storm event, when an increase of berm height could reduce berm erosion. (5) An increase to the crown width of a submerged breakwater could only become effective to reduce wave energy and berm erosion, if an appropriate breakwater height is used; otherwise, a mere increase in width with insufficient height would increase wave height and berm erosion.

摘要....................................................................................................................i
目錄...................................................................................................................ii
圖目錄...............................................................................................................iv
表目錄.............................................................................................................viii
緒論......................................................................................................1
研究動機與目的....................................................................................1
研究方法...............................................................................................2
本文組織...............................................................................................2
海灘剖面與剖面上的防護設施...............................................................4
海灘剖面...............................................................................................4
計算海灘剖面之模式.............................................................................4
一維地形變遷模式........................................................................5
二維地形變遷模式........................................................................9
平衡海灘剖面........................................................................................9
單一剖面型態...............................................................................10
複合型態斷面.............................................................................11
二分類法....................................................................................11
三分類法....................................................................................12
離岸潛堤.............................................................................................17
海岸變遷數值模式簡介....................................................................... 23
海岸變遷數值模式............................................................................... 23
SBEACH系統簡介.............................................................................. 24
SBEACH輸入設定及界面說明............................................................ 26
Reach Configulation (剖面範圍設定) ........................................27
Storm Configulation (暴浪設定) ................................................33
SBEACH資料輸出.............................................................................. 38
SBEACH模組計算.............................................................................. 39
SBEACH波浪模組.................................................................... 39
波浪模式相容性及使用限制................................................39
SBEACH波浪模式計算特性............................................. 40
數值波浪模式計算..............................................................40
SBEACH漂沙模式.................................................................... 44
SBEACH海灘剖面變化之計算........................................... 46
模式相容性及其限制...........................................................46
海灘剖面變化之數值計算....................................................47
SBEACH模式驗證............................................................................. 51
SBEACH主要參數率定....................................................................... 51
SBEACH參數率定流程....................................................................... 54
率定結果............................................................................................. 57
0.25mm<D_50<0.5mm Cases...................................61
0.125mm<D_50<0.25mm Cases.............................. 62
SBEACH模式驗證.............................................................................. 68
硬底床模組驗證..................................................................69
硬底床模組應用潛堤驗證....................................................72
海灘剖面受潛堤配置及波浪之影響.....................................................74
模擬單離岸潛堤基本配置介紹............................................................. 74
0 m線受颱風波浪影響.........................................................................79
潛堤位置對0 m線之影響....................................................80
潛堤高度對0 m線之影響....................................................83
潛堤頂寬對0 m線之影響....................................................86
0 m線影響模擬的綜合討論.................................................90
濱台受颱風波浪影響........................................................................... 94
潛堤位置對濱台的影響.......................................................94
潛堤位置對濱台的影響.......................................................96
潛堤位置對濱台的影響.......................................................99
濱台影響模擬的綜合討論.................................................102
結論與建議.......................................................................................106
結論..................................................................................................106
建議..................................................................................................107

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