台灣東北角海岸一帶，在強烈颱風侵襲時，沿岸發生數次異常之水位抬昇，皆遠超過工程設計上之考量。觀察此地區海岸地形，在陸海交界處為一類似直立壁之結構，而直立壁前方為淺礁所構成之平台，平台前方則為海底斜坡，因此本研究以水工模型模擬此海岸地形。其中模型底床分為兩大類型，1.含平台：由斜坡、平台和直立壁組合而成；2.無平台：由斜坡和直立壁組合而成，並考慮兩種坡度斜率1/10及1/30下，配合不同波浪條件並控制碎波皆發生在斜坡上，進行規則波水工模型實驗，探討波浪通過此一特定形狀底床時平均水位之變化，並與前人所發展之單純斜坡平均水位變化理論比較。
試驗結果顯示在無平台部份：陡坡時(1/10)，因受到直立壁之反射效應影響，試驗量測之平均水位變化與單純斜坡平均水位變化理論有明顯差異，碎波帶平均水位已不是線性變化，波高與水深比值亦不是常數；底床坡度較緩時(1/30)，試驗值與單純斜坡之理論值接近。含平台部份：平台上方之最大平均水位 ，與入射波條件、碎波帶條件及底床坡度相關，底床坡度較緩時(1/30)，可以上條件描述最大平均水位；陡坡時(1/10)，除上述條件外，尚有其他物理因子仍須考慮。此外考慮不同碎波形式所引用之碎波相似參數間亦有函數關係。

According to the observational data in the northeast coast of Taiwan when the strong typhoon invaded, it was found that abnormal water variation happened several times, and all the abnormal water levels (storm surge) were higher than the normal engineering consideration. In this study, the variation of mean water level (wave set-up & wave set-down) due to progressive wave over a seabed with specific profile has been investigated. This specific seabed is simulated by the hydrodynamic physical models in the laboratory. Two kinds of experimental models are arranged; one is combined by three sections: slope, platform, and vertical wall, and another is combined by slope and vertical. Furthermore, two different slopes of 1/10 and 1/30 were considered. All experimental conditions were controlled such that incident waves break on slope and mean water levels were measured.
In the first model arrangement, surf similarity parameter and dimensionless parameters form by incident and break wave condition are found to be functions of relative max mean water level, but when slope is steep(1/10), the relation between these dimensionless parameters is not obviously. In the second model arrangement, mean water level variation is compared with the theoretical value of single slope. When slope is mild(1/30), experimental results of mean water levels quit agree with theoretical value; when slope is steep(1/10), caused by the reflection of vertical wall, mean water levels in the break point and surf zone are different form theoretical value significantly.

目 錄
中文摘要 I
英文摘要 II
目錄 III
圖表目錄 V
符號說明 IX
第一章 緒論 1
1-1 前言 1
1-2 往昔之研究 1
1-3 研究目的與方法 5
1-4 本文結構 5
第二章 平均水位基本理論 6
2-1 輻射應力理論 6
2-2 輻射應力於平均水位變化之應用 13
第三章 水工模型試驗 18
3-1 實驗儀器與設備 18
3-2 實驗設計與佈置 19
3-2-1水工模型佈置 19
3-2-2儀器量測安排 20
3-3 實驗步驟與條件 20
3-3-1 實驗步驟 20
3-3-2 實驗條件 21
第四章 實驗分析與討論 26
4-1 基本資料分析與方法 26
4-1-1靜水位與平均水位 26
4-1-2實測入射波高與週期 26
4-1-3 碎波波高與碎波水深 26
4-2 各結構物佈置基本分析 27
4-2-1 1/10斜坡無平台 27
4-2-2 1/10斜坡含平台 28
4-2-3 1/30斜坡無平台 29
4-2-4 1/30斜坡含平台 29
4-3 平均水位之空間變化 30
4-4 碎波後波高水位比 31
4-5 最大平均水位值討論 32
4-5-1最大平均水位自然特性 32
4-5-2 最大平均水位無因次參數討論 33
第五章 結論與建議 63
5-1 結論 63
5-2 建議 64

參考文獻
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